Oil Galley Plugs, Just replace the five big ones? Options

[nathansnathan]

When I did this the 1st time, I had got some 3/8" NPT plugs from mcmaster-carr and they were way thicker (would have to be run deeper) than the ones I ended up using which I got from rimco. I don't think they would have worked for the outer one by the oil cooler.

I was able to use 1 tap and just ground it down alternately to running it, like it became a bottoming tap by the time I was done. You just need it for that one by the oil cooler.

wd-40 is relatively bad as a lubricant. I think it's pretty bad for everything actually and refuse to buy such a crappy consumer-ish product. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) For such an important job I would use actual oil and go for class A threads.

I used loctite 518 to seal them, as it sets anaerobically.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Meh.... guess I've been doing it wrong since the early 90's, oh well just a few hundred or more type one full flow and T4 cases.

The plugs by the cooler can sit proud, they won't interfere with anything.
BTW if you are going with a full flow system you only really have to do the one top hole.

Meh.... guess working as a machinist I wouldn't know about threading aluminum.'

WD40 is mostly mineral oil and wax. Aluminum has a tendency to gall and to break taps. Make it easy on yourself, and the threads will be better.

To get class A threads will require that you tap a minimum amount, meaning letting it sit proud.. it isn't really up to you in this situation. I was simply stating that is something to look out for.

You made me put you back on my ignore list. Not sure how you ever got removed.

[nine9three]

I've always used JB Weld to seal mine. Never had a leak (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Mark Henry]

When I did this the 1st time, I had got some 3/8" NPT plugs from mcmaster-carr and they were way thicker (would have to be run deeper) than the ones I ended up using which I got from rimco. I don't think they would have worked for the outer one by the oil cooler.

I was able to use 1 tap and just ground it down alternately to running it, like it became a bottoming tap by the time I was done. You just need it for that one by the oil cooler.

wd-40 is relatively bad as a lubricant. I think it's pretty bad for everything actually and refuse to buy such a crappy consumer-ish product. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) For such an important job I would use actual oil and go for class A threads.

I used loctite 518 to seal them, as it sets anaerobically.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Meh.... guess I've been doing it wrong since the early 90's, oh well just a few hundred or more type one full flow and T4 cases.

The plugs by the cooler can sit proud, they won't interfere with anything.
BTW if you are going with a full flow system you only really have to do the one top hole.

Meh.... guess working as a machinist I wouldn't know about threading aluminum.'

WD40 is mostly mineral oil and wax. Aluminum has a tendency to gall and to break taps. Make it easy on yourself, and the threads will be better.

To get class A threads will require that you tap a minimum amount, meaning letting it sit proud.. it isn't really up to you in this situation. I was simply stating that is something to look out for.

You made me put you back on my ignore list. Not sure how you ever got removed.

Boo Hoo....ignore list are made for girls with no spine. Whatever (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Puebloswatcop]

WD40 does a fair job, but if you want really clean threads you really should use cutting oil that is specifically made for the job. I have tried both and there is a huge difference. It is available at hardware stores and harbor freight.

[McMark]

I love how these threads go awry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Is cutting oil better for the job? Absolutely.
Will WD-40 work? Absolutely.
Should he go out and get special cutting oil to do this job? Absolutely not.

I'll send him a free, machined engine case if using WD-40 causes a problem.

And I'm putting all of you on my ignore list! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[pilothyer]

You can spend the money on special for aluminum "Tap Magic" or you can simply use...........get ready.................olive oil.....it really does work well.

[914_teener]

I love how these threads go awry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Is cutting oil better for the job? Absolutely.
Will WD-40 work? Absolutely.
Should he go out and get special cutting oil to do this job? Absolutely not.

I'll send him a free, machined engine case if using WD-40 causes a problem.

And I'm putting all of you on my ignore list! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

No.....don.t do that!

Love the avatar! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[McMark]

Had to. This got way too dramatic over WD-40. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/av-419.jpg)

[Mark Henry]

Had to. This got way too dramatic over WD-40. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/av-419.jpg)

I know...like wow....I even said it might not be the best.

One thing that gets me is is someone say there is only one way, my way and then tell you the expensive way to do things.

My "right way" is often the cheapest way to do a good job. It's never the only way or the only right way.

So to put the money where my mouth is....

The number 1 cylinder flywheel side is the only plug you should worry about getting flush as it will hit the flywheel. Best is to cut a thread, check with a plug and repeat till you the plug is flush to the case.

[Mark Henry]

Now I have it pretty well flush, BTW I'll be doing this all with one tap only

[Mark Henry]

This came out good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
This show the one plug you have to be careful of as you don't want to plug the cam galley. That said as long as you don't go beyond flush you're OK as a 3/8 plug is about 1/2" deep and you have 1/2" of material. Except for the #1 plug you can leave all the rest of the plugs a bit proud.

Also it does cut threads into the galley hole, who cares, get over it because it doesn't matter. If it really bugs you that much smooth it out with a dremel.

[Mark Henry]

The last pic shows 3 different steel plugs.
The one on the left is like the short rimco one mentioned by someone else. I don't like this one because it has a slot instead of a hex. The other issues I have is they are not a common plug and IMHO not needed.
The middle pic is a brass and like aluminum the hex strips out way too easy.

Sealants, the only big no-no is teflon tape, it's so slippy you can easily over torque the plug and in worst case crack the boss. Most other sealants will work just don't get it in the case.
The center plug below has a sealant pre applied. They have never leaked on me but, to be honest I do put a drop of loctite on them.
Also note the plug is sitting about 1/8" proud in the first pic, this is OK.

[Mark Henry]

You can spend the money on special for aluminum "Tap Magic" or you can simply use...........get ready.................olive oil.....it really does work well.

Prefect, next time I throw a chunk of aluminum on the lathe I'll give that a try. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

This is what I'm talking about, using something on hand instead of going out and spending money on something you will only use once.

[saigon71]

Thanks for all the technical support on this...especially Mark for posting the tutorial with pictures! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The five suspect galley plugs were all tight on my engine & it took some force to pull them out with a slide hammer. Regardless, I'm glad I took this precaution.

Installed the five galley plugs today with Locktite 565, following Mark's guidelines for depth.

Used PB Blaster for lube. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[Mark Henry]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
Good job!